My Skincare Routine

Feb 9

Hello and thank you for joining me! Today I am going to share my skincare routine and a little history on some of the cosmetics treatments I’ve had done. If this sounds interesting, then keep on reading!

My Skin Type, Concerns, and History

My skin is normal to oily and my biggest skin concern is repairing the damage I caused in previous years. Being a male with normal-to-oily skin I am more prone to things like enlarged pores and open comedones (blackheads); also, with my fair-light skin tone (Fitzpatrick Type 2) things like redness, broken capillaries, and blue/purple undereye circles are something I struggle with. In my earlier years I wasn’t very nice to my skin… I was obsessed with being tan (burnt) and I wanted to strip away all the oil from my face so I wouldn’t look shiny. I also didn’t really start using SPF religiously until I was around 25 and I was very guilty of “forgetting” to take my makeup off before bed.

My Approach To Skincare

I like to address my personal skincare in the same way that I address a client’s routine within a clinic setting. My focus is on gentle cleansing protection, prevention, and repair. In my younger years before I was skin-care wise, I had a intense love for tanning beds, which wasn’t so friendly to my skin and now I'm having to work to repair the damage I caused.

The Morning Routine

Occasionally I will wash my face in the morning if I’ve exercised or I’ve gotten sweaty in my sleep but typically I don’t cleanse in the mornings, but I typically splash my face with water and move on. The only exception to this are the mornings I use my NuFACE, when I will cleanse before applying the conducting gel. After cleansing or rinsing my skin I apply my Vitamin C serum, moisturizer, and SPF.

Morning Products

Cleanser – The Inkey List Salicylic Acid Cleanse

I only cleanse on the mornings I use my NuFACE. The Inkey List Salicylic Acid Cleanser will also help to lower the pH of my skin, which will allow the Vitamin C serum to work more efficiently.

Serum – Timeless 20% Vitamic C + E Ferulic Acid Serum

I use vitamin C (specifically L-ascorbic acid) as there are studies showing that this ingredient can help to combat free-radical damage, fade hyperpigmentation, and stimulate collagen production. I like the formulation of the Timeless Vitamin C + E Ferulic Acid Serum as it includes vitamin E and ferulic acid which have been shown to help stabilize vitamin C. There is no concrete evidence that vitamin C lives up to all of its claims; however, I’m willing to give it a chance based on the studies I’ve read.

Moisturizer – CeraVe PM Facial Lotion

Don’t let the term “PM” in the CeraVe PM Facial Lotion deter you from using this moisturizer during the AM. CeraVe offers both an AM and PM lotion, with the primary difference being the inclusion of SPF in the AM formula. Since I use a separate SPF, I use the PM lotion due to its silky formula which includes ceramides and hyaluronic acid.

SPF – La Roche-Posay Anthelios Dermo-Kids SPF 50+

A standard combination sunscreen that I enjoy using on a daily basis. I find that the sunscreen leaves behind a luminous finish that layers well over itself and under makeup.

Lip SPF – Vani Cream Lip SPF 50

An interesting lip sunscreen that is an all-mineral formula. While it does provide good sun protection due to it being an all-mineral-filter sunscreen, it leaves behind a rather chalky white cast and isn't exactly wearable on its own. I will say this sunscreen layers well under lip products like lip liner, lipsticks, and lip gloss.

PM Routine

My morning skincare routine is based on prevention and protection; my evening skincare routine is based on nurturing and repair. In the night routine I am sharing with you, I currently include a retinoid that I generally use two to three nights a week; the rest of my routine is focused on gentle cleansing, hydrating, and giving my skin the nutrients it needs to be prepared to better accept the retinoid.

Oil Cleanse – Avene XeraCalm AD Lipid Replenishing Cleansing Oil

When beginning my nighttime skin routine, I enjoy using an oil-based cleanser to help break up any makeup or sunscreen that I've worn throughout the day. Be sure to apply an oil-based cleanser with dry hands onto a dry face and massage in gentle, fluid movements covering the face, neck, and ear area. Once that’s complete, I dampen my hands and massage water into the cleanser to begin the emulsification process to really help break down that oil and makeup and sunscreen.

Second Cleanse – CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser

The first oil-based cleanse is to help remove any product that we had on our face; our second cleanse is to thoroughly cleanse the skin to help prepare for moisturizer as well as any active ingredients. You can choose any type of cleanser that you like; since it’s winter, I’ll sometimes reach for a gentle milky cleanser – like the La Roche-Posay Toleriane Dermo-Cleanser – as I've already removed any oils that might be on my skin.

Toner – Sana Soy Milk Moisture Milky Lotion

After our cleansing steps have been completed, I like to add moisture back to my skin by using an essence or a toner. (Many Japanese “lotion” products have the same consistency and intent as toner, though this varies by brand.)

This helps replenish any of the transepidermal water loss that might have occurred during cleansing and to prime our skin to accept further moisture in the steps that follow – there are three separate moisturizing steps including this one because I want to prepare my skin as much as possible for the retinoid that I’m using.

Hydrator – Neutrogena HydroBoost Moisturizer Extra-Dry Skin (Fragrance-Free)

After the toner is sufficiently absorbed, I apply a skin hydrator. This product is heavier than the toner we just used and is intended to add further moisture to the skin. You can choose any type of vehicle (e.g. gel, cream, or lotion) you like for your product (e.g. peptides, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, or even water); I use a lightweight gel cream, which contains glycerin and hyaluronic acid, that will layer well under my next moisturizer.

Moisturizer – The Inkey List Peptide Moisturizer

The moisturizer is like a duvet cover that helps lock in the previous two layers. I like to choose a basic formulation that is free of fragrance and dyes. Personally, I do not look for active ingredients in a moisturizer as they can be found in our previous products – as well as the retinoid.

Protectant – Avene Cicalfate+ Restorative Protective Cream

Before applying our retinoid, I like to use a barrier cream to protect delicate areas of my face like around my eyes, around my nose, and around my mouth. For my particular facial shape and anatomy, these are areas that I tend to have product settle and I want to prevent any unwanted irritation from my retinoid. Over time, as your skin continues through the retinization process, irritation should minimize; however, I like to be on the safe side and protect my skin any way I can.

Retinoid – Tretinoin (prescription)

Before applying the retinoid, I like to make sure my previous moisturizing steps have been thoroughly absorbed into the skin. By letting my skin rest until it’s dry to the touch, it will be less likely to have a negative reaction to the retinoid – applying active ingredients is safer on dry skin compared to damp skin that soaks up products more readily.

Lip Moisturizer – CeraVe Healing Ointment

To ensure my lips stay hydrated throughout the night I like to use a lip moisturizer. I like products that include petrolatum as they help lock in moisture. The CeraVe healing ointment I am using also includes ceramides, which help to repair barrier function in my lips.

Devices and Tools

NuFACE Mini

The NuFACE is a newer addition to my skincare routine; this particular device offers an in-home microcurrent treatment similar (but not equal) to what you could get in an office setting. Microcurrent has been shown to stimulate muscles, helping to reduce the signs of fine lines and wrinkles. Be mindful that results using these microcurrent devices are limited and you should not expect results comparable to those of a more invasive facial treatment.

To use the NuFACE device, we need to ensure our skin is thoroughly cleansed and then apply conducting gel over the treatment area. The conducting gel allows this device’s microcurrent to stimulate our muscles to contract, helping to build them up; think of this action as a form of exercise for your facial muscles. After your NuFACE treatment is complete, you can either leave the conducting gel on, as it does have hydrating properties, or you can remove it with a washcloth and proceed with your general skincare routine.

Treatments

When it comes to my in-office treatments, I like to think about them as supplements to my everyday skincare routine: they can help boost the results of your everyday skincare routine but are not enough to stand on their own in the grand scheme of anti-aging and preventative care.

Botox

I've been a user on and off of Botox over the past six years, I've gone through stages of wanting more and wanting less; at this point in my skincare journey, I'm at a point where I feel like I can go without. Botox gets a bad reputation as it will freeze your facial muscles and can prevent you from making facial expressions; however, this is dependent on the look you want and how your technician decides to treat your particular concerns.

Filler

My relationship with filler is much like my relationship with Botox. When I first started getting filler, I wanted as much filler as I could get, and now I feel like I don't need it like I once did. In my early years, I had filler in my lips, cheeks, and under my eyes; however, I found the more I did the less I personally liked my look, which led me to have my undereye filler dissolved and never had my cheek filler retouched.

I have continued with my lips throughout the years, my last time being at the end of December 2019. (I laugh when I see the bruises under my lip in those New Year's Eve photos.) With it now being over a year since my last appointment, the filler in my lips has mostly if not completely faded and I'm in no rush to have it retouched. That being said, knowing myself I will have my lips filled again in the near future.

Chemical Peels

Over the years I have had a few chemical peels. While they are nice, I personally do not feel like they are an essential service for me and my concerns. With that being said, I have only had your “lunchtime peels” – no downtime involved. They're nice: my skin feels a little bit smoother for a few days, but more than anything my skin feels more hydrated. And for hydration I feel like I can achieve similar results by being diligent with my own home care. Of course, if I'm offered one as a free service I won't say no, but I won't go out of my way to book an appointment for one at this time.

Laser

Several years ago, I had a laser appointment to treat broken capillaries on the side of my nose. The results were noticeable and had a good outcome. In terms of cost, however, the single treatment to address the visible broken capillaries (the rest of my skin was untreated) was more expensive than two whole-face IPL sessions.

IPL

The IPL treatment I purchased as a package of three; though I was only able to attend two sessions before the 2020 lockdown began here in Ontario. Still, I was thrilled with the results I was seeing. The treatment I had was referred to as an IPL photo-facial and I noticed a reduction in not only my broken capillaries and vascular concerns that I previously had the laser treatment for, but also a reduction in the sun damage on my face. For me, the IPL service is one I would happily book again in the future.

Final Thoughts

I'm happy I was able to finally share my skincare routine with you today. However, I want to say that this skincare routine is catered for me and my skin specifically. We all have very different skin types, skin conditions, and skin concerns which need to be assessed and treated on an individual basis. You can look at my skin routine as a guide; however, I would not suggest running out to the store, buying all the products I mentioned, and going home – while you might have success, you might also have a negative reaction and I do not want to see that happen to anyone.

My skincare routine is a labour of love; it has taken me many years to get to where I am now. If you are new to building a skincare routine, then check out my post about building a basic routine that will set you up for success with overall skin health.

Thank you for spending your time with me today. I hope you found this post helpful and gave you some insight to the steps that I do within my own routine. As we progress through the following weeks, I will be updating my beginner’s skin guide and help you get to the level of skincare that I’m at while minimizing irritation and sensitization.

Warm Wishes

Zack